Our Journal

Day 1 - AMSTERDAM – NAIROBI

At 10:25 we leave from Schiphol for Nairobi. When we arrive at 20:25 we are welcomed by our guide, who brings us to hotel Panafric situated just outside the center of Nairobi. We enjoy the warm humidity and heavy fragrances of Africa, unfortunately we see little of the city because it is already dark. When we arrive in our hotel the airco in our room is broken, however the attentive steward brings us a fan, which rapidly solves this issue.

Day 2 - NAIROBI - MASAI MARA

After breakfast our guide Douglas, picks us up at 08:00 for the 5 hours ride over dusty and rough roads to the Masai Mara. During this ride we already encounter some zebras and gazelles and enjoy the wide landscape with all its natural beauty and Acacia trees. Along the road we pause for a while in a small town, called Narok to stretch our legs, buy water and obtain some money. It seems not many tourists visit this authentic Kenyan town, where donkeys roam the streets, as one reacts to us, as if we are a real curiosa. After visiting a Masai village we arrive around 14:00 at the Mara Simba Lodge where we will spend the night. After checking in our first game drive starts in search of wildlife. Well, searching is a big word, because as soon as we enter the park we're already greeted by a large group of giraffes and thomson gazelles, which we can observe from very nearby. It’s our lucky day today, as we almost immediately run into two huge male lions resting lazily under the bushes. During the ride I suddenly spot a cheetah, basking in the sun on a little hill. When she walks away we follow her to some bushes were two cubs are waiting for her. We also see a rhino, but unfortunately he disappears into the shrubs before we can take a good picture. Around the lodge there is also all kinds of animals wondering around, for example little monkeys, birds and even crocodiles and hippos in the lake behind the restaurant. After a delicious diner and a drink we go to sleep, exhausted but satisfied, listening to the sounds of Africa.

Day 3 - MASAI MARA

Today we have a full day game drives in the Masai Mara. We start early in the morning, and after lunch and a short rest break we will continue once again in the afternoon. During these game drives we see numerous animals, among them many new-borns, drinking with their mothers or playing and running with each other. We encounter two large elephants females with their little ones, and also large groups of impalas, water buffalos, zebras and hyena's. We admire a large group of lionesses with surely twelve cubs, enjoying them selves and basking in the sun, we can get so close that we hear them purr. All this, while behind us two lionesses are chewing loudly on a water buffalo, we can hear the bones breaking and smell the flesh. We also bring a visit to a large hippo pool, where we can walk along the side to admire the hippos and there youngs, as well as the crocodiles, accompanied by an armed ranger. We spend the night in the Mara Sarova Camp, a large tent with patio, the back part made of stone, in which the toilet and shower is located. Baboons regularly visit our patio and the trees are full off lively whistling birds. To save power there’s no electricity after midnight, when most of the geusts are asleep anyway. Later that night, after diner and a drink, enjoyed in the company of two lovely ladies who will do volunteer work here, we depart with a pocket lantern in the direction of our lodge. Along the way we see the large glowing eyes of a couple of dik-dik’s on the premises, they lie in the grass trying to take a nap. After a good night's rest under a mosquito net, at 05:00 in the morning we’re awakened by the very loud noises of a, still unknown animal.

Day 4 - MASAI MARA

Again we have a full day in the Masai Mara, we start at 07:00 in the morning for a game drive at sunrise, when it’s still cool enough for most of the animals to be active. We encounter a cheetah with its cubs and a large group of elephants with their young ones, they walk on trumpeting, while flapping their ears and heads in a macho way trying to impress us. The majority of the big five we've already photographed, with exception of the rhino and a leopard, because these are fairly difficult to spot. We let Douglas know that the rest of the day will be in search of these two. After a delicious lunch in the lodge and a short break alongside the pool we depart around 16:00 for the afternoon game drive. Then finally on our last game drive in the Mara, and after a lot of rocks “which we thought looked like”, we spot a rhino again, one that doesn't immediately run into the shrubs. Although he's far away, we do get a change to make some pictures before we need to leave the park. While going back to the lodge we also encounter a huge elephant with an itch, he is scraping its back against a sausage tree with a beautiful sunset in the background. It is a single male and he is clearly not to happy with all the attention we give him, he stands aggressively, shaking its ears and head and makes Douglas extremely nervous. We ask him to hurry onwards, before the elephant decides to attack. When we have past him, we stop once more and have a final look at this “large elephant bull” walking of in the direction of the sunset. Absolutely amazing!!.

Day 5 - MASAI MARA – NAIROBI

We make our last morning game drive in the Mara, still in search of our last object of the big five, the leopard. Douglas has promised us that we will see a leopard in Kenya and we've let him know, as a joke, that we will abduct his children if he doesn't shows us the goods, so there’s a lot at stake for him. Again we see numerous animals but unfortunately we must leave without the opportunity to admire a leopard. After lunch we leave for our return to Nairobi, where we will spend the night in hotel Panafric. Underway we enjoy the scenery with its wide plains, and make some last pictures of a beautiful secretary bird, while stretching our legs. The many Acacia trees, Yellow Fevers and sand tornadoes are a joy to look at, but unfortunately we also see many carcasses of zebras and other grazing animals lying along the road because of the draught. Douglas did not forget about his promise and invites us on a walking safari in Nairobi, he picks us up at the hotel after lunch, and we’re on our way. The walking safari seems to be in a zoo, but afterwards this will prove to be an unforgettable experience. We unexpectedly get a chance to pet and caress a rhino and a cheetah, we stand eye to eye with a growling male lion defending its bone against us, and finally we get to see a leopard. Tomorrow we will leave towards Tanzania, but first we enjoy Nairobi by night on our balcony, looking at all the little disco busses driving up and down the road.

Day 6 - NAIROBI – ARUSHA

Today we take the shuttle bus to Arusha, underway we pass the Tanzanian customs authorities, where the driver drops us off at the Kenya customs office to depart Kenya and brings us to the Tanzania customs office to enter Tanzania. Arusha lies at the foot of the 5th highest mountain, Mount Meru, and on our way we also pass the Kilimanjaro. Because Arusha lies against the mountain the surroundings here are much greener and fresher than in Kenya, and we have the idea that Tanzania is somehow better organized regarding its infrastructure and such. The shuttle bus drop us off at a hotel, where we are welcomed by Issa, our new guide, who brings us to the Serena Mountain Village Lodge, where we will spend the night. Here we are welcomed with wet towels, drenched in eucalyptus and a glass of fresh fruit juice. We enjoy a delicious Diner ala card and consume a drink in the English garden. The lodge lies along a large lake and has a spectacular flower garden, which attracts a lot of birds and insects. Everything breathes a kind of serenity. Simply glorious!!.

Day 7 - ARUSHA – NGORONGORO

After a wonderful breakfast of fresh made omelets and fruit, we depart for our next location. Issa forgot something therefore we first drive to his house to collect the forgotten items, and then we're on our way for the approximately three-hour drive to Ngorongoro. The road to Ngorongoro is breathtaking with a richness of lush green trees along the slithering mountain road, the air is humid and warm. Along the way we pass many Masai villages and of course the Masai people themselves with their grazing herds. We shortly make a stop to stretch our legs at a souvenir shop along the way owned by a friend of Issa who’s in need of some customers. Issa tells us not to buy anything at this point as we will come by again on the way back. Before we arrive at the lodge we stop along the rim of the crater for a spectacular view over the whole Ngorongoro crater. Again, when we arrive at the Ngorongoro Serena Lodge build in the rim of the crater, we are welcomed with a wet towel and a drink. This appears to be the custom at every lodge in Tanzania as are the porters that carry your luggage to and from the lodge. The guys in the dining room are extremely impressed by Bas his photos and according to Innocence, our very spontaneous waiter, we should become ambassadors of Tanzania.

Day 8 – NGORONGORO

Today we have a full day game drive in the crater where we can see a richness of grazing animals like, zebra’s, wildebeests, hartebeests, topis, gazelles, water buffalos, mongooses and warthogs. Within the crater lives a huge group of hyenas and we see one passing us with a zebra leg in its mouth. We also see hyenas, jackals and vultures all together strolling around a dead zebra. As it rained last night a large group of hyenas is lazily laying around in a mud pool. We arrive at yet another hippo pool were one of the hippos is pirouetting around in the water, ending belly-up, with its huge pink belly basking in the sun. This is such an extraordinary site that we are watching wondrously for at least half an hour. Furthermore we see many birds and again a rhino, this time with its young. Because Ngorongoro is a strictly protected area one is only allowed to follow the paths, this is a bit of a shame, as you cannot get very close to the animals you see. After a delicious meal, we enjoy a drink and a good conversation with a couple of English guests while watching a Masai Show.

Day 9 – NGORONGORO – SERENGETI

Today we will drive towards the Serengeti, were along the way we will see large groups of zebras and wildebeests, crossing the road in the soft rain in search of food and water, while damp rises of their warm backs. Also we see our first kopjes, big rocks in the landscape that were pushed out of the earth over centuries. Lions love to lay on them basking in the sun, but unfortunately the kopjes we see today are empty because of the dribbling rain. We spent the night at the Serengeti Serena Lodge, a beautiful lodge in the middle of the park with no fence. While we are checking in, we get the advice not to walk to our lodge after dark without being accompanied by an armed escort. Issa tells us that a couple of water buffalos choose this location as their permanent living area and later that we hear from several guests that they saw the water buffalos drinking from the pool.

Day 10 – SERENGETI

Today we awake early again, while i’m on the balcony watching the scenery, i see three water buffalos grazing underneath, what a great start of the day i think as i call out to Bas to come and watch. We will drive around the Serengeti the whole day, after a morning game drive, a lunch in the park we will continue with our afternoon game drive. As far as we can see enormous amounts of wildebeests, zebras and water buffalos are roaming the wide plains. Everywhere we look we see animals running or wondering around and laying in the grass, among them many young ones, as February is the period to see newborns in the Serengeti. Also we see big groups of lionesses with their cubs, enjoying a nap in the sun or even chewing on a prey and many elephants and giraffes. A big group of vultures stand around a head, picking it clean, sometimes putting their heads and long neck into an eye socket as far as their chest. Underlying annoyances are a regular part of this spectacle, with a lot of macho behavior and flapping their broad wings they try to impress each other. It looks like a scene form Disney’s Jungle Book. When evening falls we take a nice dip in the pool, then a good meal and off to bed.

Day 11 – SERENGETI – LAKE MANYARA

Today we’re in now hurry and while we slowly drive towards Lake Manyara, we finally see our leopard, which completes the big five for us. During the ride, al of a sudden Issa stops and point to a tree, where we don't see a thing. We look at each other, grab our binoculars and have a look were Issa points at. After looking intensely we realize we are looking at a leopard, luckily we can get the leopard reasonably close with our tele-lens. Issa’s eye side amazes us while we stay for about forty-five minutes enjoying the moment, in which the leopard climbs in and out of the tree several times. At moments its eating a little of the reebok that hangs in the tree with only one of its legs showing. We feel this is Africa at its best and there’s not a lot more we could wish for, accept maybe that kill we haven't seen. But then, just before we leave the Serengeti we see a lioness lying along the road next to a stretch of bushes and Bas decides to take one last picture. While we set-up for the picture we notice that the lioness is sneaking towards the bush and Issa “with his hawk like eyes” spots a reebok in the bushes. The tension heightens while the lioness sneaks closer, to which eventually turns out to be two reeboks, a couple. Then suddenly the lioness fastly sprints forward, one reebok shoots away, but it’s to late for the little female, the lioness grabs her. Because al of this happened in the dense bushes we unfortunately didn't get an opportunity for a good picture, but eventually our patience is rewarded. After a while the lioness comes strolling out of the bushes dragging the reebok along and gives us the change for some awesome pictures. Now we can truly say we’ve seen all we wished for!!. Once arrived at Lake Manyara in the early evening we go on a game drive trough this small, compact park, were we see lots of blue monkeys in the trees, elephants roaming around and we can admire the famous Baobab trees. The tree climbing lions that are supposed to live here are nowhere in site. Tired but extremely fulfilled we spent the night at Lake Mayara Serena Lodge.

Day 12 – LAKE MANYARA – ARUSHA

We start the day with one more morning game drive trough Lake Manyara National Park and while we see many animals, again the tree climbing lions are nowhere to be seen. We do see a baboon drinking from a garden hose at the entrance and we get to see a multitude of birds and various monkeys. Despite the fact that this is a relatively small park we are surprised about the diversity of animals and natural beauty we see here. After this last game drive we leave for Arusha, were we once again check into the Arusha Mountain Lodge and play some cards in the english garden with a group of American guests. Later that day we have an appointment with Issa to discuss the idea of this web site and how he could tribute to this. After this conversation he insists that we come over to his house and meet his family, once arrived and enjoying a refreshing Cola, he proudly shows us the family photo albums and tells us about his family and live. Back at the Mountain Village lodge we enjoy a lovely diner and a quit drink in the lounch. Later that evening we leave for our lodge were we spent part of the night lying outside our lodge admiring the starry night and listening to the thunder, while looking back on an unforgettable safari. Unfortunately our safari ends here and we've enjoyed ourselves tremendously, we will rest for a week at the beach of Mombasa and then we'll go home again.

Day 13 – ARUSHA – NAIROBI

Today we go back to Nairobi again by shuttle buss, Issa can’t pick us up as he needs to go to the hospital were his brother needs an operation, however he made sure we get alternative transportation. As soon as we left Arusha “however, to far to walk back” the buss breaks down. After a couple of attempt from the chauffeur to try and repair the buss, it is decided that we need to wait for a new buss. So al the suitcases and bags have to come off the roof again and while waiting we take some pictures of the many Masai kids wandering around us. Luckily the new buss arrives fairly quickly and we’re on our way again. At the border crossing the chauffeur asks us if he needs to wait and we decide that we can handle the short walk across the border. This was not a success as we were hassled a lot this time by the local folk trying to sell us al sorts, while pulling at us. In Nairobi this time we spent the night in the luxurious Hilton hotel.

Day 14 – NAIROBI – MOMBASA

Today we will fly to Mombasa, we will be picked up and dropped off at Nairobi airport We've got some trouble checking in because apparently Bas his ticket was cancelled, but Bas wouldn't be Bas if he wouldn't solve this issue and so it happens, after talking to many manager from managers. The days to come we will enjoy in a luxury resort, the White Sands. The White Sands Resort lies on the beach and has a variety of swimming pools and restaurants, underneath the balcony of our room a Frangipani tree spreads an exotic fragrance and we have a large bathtub.

Day 15 tot 18 – MOMBASA

Wonderful, every day a little sunshine, swimming and enjoying fresh coconuts with a straw brought to me by the gardener Patrick. The afternoons we spend relaxing at the pool, with once in a while a cocktail at the pool bar with its barstools in the water. Around 16:00 we reside in Cocos bar with its lounch chairs right on the beach for our daily afternoon tea and the evenings we conclude with a cocktail and a walk along the beach between the crabs that scatter away. We meet some wonderful people from England with whom we spent time regularly and they teach me how to prepare and eat a local treat, mango with sea salt and chilli pepper. On our last day the gardener Patrick brings me a hat that he made for me from fresh leaves, and then we need to get ready for our departure tomorrow. One last evening walk on the beach and then we fall asleep with the exotic Frangipani scenting our room.

Day 19 – MOMBASA – NAIROBI

Today we will leave in the afternoon for the night train to Nairobi. We get some mixed messages regarding the time the train leaves as at the reception one says it leaves at 18:00 while someone else says it departs at 19:00. Furthermore our transport to the station arrived early and already left again. Finally our transportation arrives again and we hurry to the station in order to catch the train at 18:00, which happens to depart at 19:00 after all. We put our luggage in the first class, very tiny 2-passenger coupe with no ventilation and get of to take some pictures of the train station. On the platform we receive vouchers for diner, which we can enjoy right after departure. Reasonable food, served on a tiny table with the fear of getting a hot bowl of soup in your lap from the waiter, due to the shaking of the train. When we get back to our coupe the couches have been magically transformed to bunk beds and they warn us to keep al doors and window closed during the night, as a lot of burglaries occur. We decide to go to bed right away, as there is not much to do on board. It’s extremely hot and noisy, so we hardly get any sleep, it is however an experience we wouldn't want to miss.

Day 20 – NAIROBI

The following morning we’re out of bed early to enjoy the gorgeous landscape, where every once and a while we see some lonely zebras or gazelles, before we pass the outskirts of Nairobi entering the city. At the station Douglas is waiting for us. Before we left Nairobi we agreed that we would like to spend some more time with him and he had some nice ideas for a couple of city trips. Today we bring a visit to the elephant orphanage to see the baby elephants get fed, we feed the giraffes in the giraffe center en we finish the afternoon with a trip to the snake park. Douglas is also enthusiastic about our ideas, and brings us a couple of itineraries and price lists when he picks us up for diner. We eat at the Carnivore restaurant, for which we invited Douglas as well as a farewell. Here a little flag stands on your table and they will come by cutting al sorts of meat on your plate until your full, and you put the flag down. We try al sort of meat like, crocodile, ostrich and camel, especially the last is very tasty. Because Douglas contributed to a, for us unforgettable holiday, we surprise him with our luxury binoculars that he liked so much and say goodbye.

Day 21 – NAIROBI – AMSTERDAM

Today we will be picked up for our transport to the airport for our flight back to Amsterdam. Unfortunately our holiday comes to an end and the weeks passed to quickly. Kenya and Tanzania, but especially Douglas and Issa stole our hearts, and we will definitely one-day return to these wonderful and beautiful countries. We fly towards home looking back at an overwhelming experience and touch ground in the Netherlands at 18:10